Vintage Rolex Submariner Ads

While only one form of the Submariner is shown in 1950s advertisements, ads from the 1960s show different looks of the references 5512 and 5513 throughout the decade. These variations collectively showcase some of the tweaks Rolex made that are the nuances of the Submariner we know and love today. For example, scholars and collectors will be quick to recognize the square crown guards illustrated in one ad - a rare attribute that quickly was modified to a point and subsequently a round shape. Also, a number of ads display the Submariner Ref. 5513 with an  “Explorer dial” - a unique variant that was available in the U.K. and therefore was only published in magazines circulating outside the U.S. 

Amidst the treasure trove of 1960s Submariner ads are a handful that are arguably among the best Rolex ads of all time. There’s the famous and ever-popular 1966 advertisement that perhaps best represents the mad men era, showing a woman’s hand gently touching a rugged Submariner. Then there’s what I’d deem the most quintessential Submariner ad of all time, the 1968 “If you were looking for lost empires…” with emblematic imagery - just a diver and a Submariner. Finally, a personal favorite of mine, and too often overlooked ad, is another from 1966 with a wrist draped over a periscope perfectly angling a 4-line Ref. 5512. Like the timelessness and toughness of the Submariner watch, many 1960s Sub ads have proven to stand the test of time. Their layout and copy are visually and verbally ingrained in our minds.

Just as an all original, unpolished Sub can be a prized possession and the cornerstone of a watch collection, a framed 1960s Submariner ad can be a centerpiece of a home or office.

Around 1967, Rolex released the first Submariner with a date complication - the Reference 1680. A few years following the release of the “Red” Submariner with date, it seems Rolex no longer featured the no-date models in their ads. That’s right, from 1971 all the way up until around 2020, I’ve never come across any magazine ads showing well-loved, no-date references like the 14060. This is likely due to a strategic marketing decision made by Rolex to show the more expensive and “upgraded” date version. And all those ads showing the reference 1680 also almost always show the model with “Submariner” printed in red, which depending on the print quality, can appear vibrant, pinkish, or basically white. Speaking of the white, I’ve only come across very few later 1680s with “Submariner” printed in white, just four to be exact.

Besides being more colorful, ads during this era contrast ads from the previous decade because they heavily feature Rolex brand ambassadors. Although not the “celebrity” type we see today, the ambassadors of this era were individuals highly accomplished in their industry, field or sport, such as divers, photographers and outdoors people. While the tales of Rolex-wearing adventurers were no doubt effective, advertising that showed Rolex being part of the America’s Cup was equally effective. In addition to magazine ads mentioning the Submariner being in the same class as the winning yacht, there were unique ads found on the back cover of America’s Cup programs. Their partnership with the America’s Cup, beginning around 1967, is just another example of Rolex strategically positioning their brand with just the right spokespeople and sporting events.

Along with the introduction of the Submariner Date reference 1680 came two 18kt gold versions of the Submariner with black and blue dials and bezel inserts. Though the steel Submariners were likely used more for diving, earlier ads featuring the gold version also depicted divers using the watch during their expeditions. In the 1990s and 2000s, there was a slight shift in Rolex Submariner ads, with the two-tone and all gold models slowly becoming less associated with being utilized as a tool watch and worn more as a sign of wealth and luxury.